From Ancient Egypt to Baroque/Rococo: A Chronology of Draped and Tailored Garments

To illustrate examples of draped and tailored garments, I chose historical pieces that were popular for its respective period. This chronological perspective also depicts the transformation of clothing beginning with the minimalist drapery of Ancient Egypt to the outlandish tailored over-the-top fashions of the Baroque-Rococo period.

Draped Garments

Egyptial Old Kingdom - 3000-1500 BC
The kalasiris (for female) and the schenti (for male) were the base clothing used by Egyptians to drape on their body. Girdles and ropes were use to form the silhouettes of each garment. This image portrays a pharaoh and his queen in majestic garments and accessories only suitable for royalty.

Greece - 1100 BC-146 BC
Grecian garments are characterized by soft flowing silhouettes. To secure the draping of garments on the body, fibulas were used. In this image, we see a woman wearing a doric chiton. The musician wears a tunic-type of chiton.

Rome - 500 BC-476 AD
Roman garments were also draped much like Grecian clothing. A unique aspect of the Roman clothing style is their usage of color in textiles as well as the variety of textiles used to create garments. The Roman Empire's access to various countries and resources contributed to their unique fashions. The woman in this image is wearing a stola and palla which is indicative of her marriage status, while the man is outfitted in a toga.

Tailored Garments

Byzantium and the Middle Ages - 313 BC - 1450 AD
During the later part of the Roman Empire's rule, the eastern Roman capital, Constantinople, was more stable politically than its Western counterpart. As a result, less conflicts meant more time to cultivate fashions. Although the silhouette of the clothing during this period was still fluid and soft, there was an emergence of tailored garments and complicated textiles usually enhanced by embroidery. The dalmaticas worn by the persons shown in this image are tailored to be long and robe-like to provide maximum coverage of the body. This conservative appearance, which is a departure from the more revealing Grecian and even Roman styles, is characteristic of the Christian church's powerful influence during this period.

Rennaisance - 1330-1625 AD
Following the Byzantine era, the tailored garments during the Rennaisance period retain the usage of ornate fabrics. However, they have become rigid in shape. Queen Elizabeth is pictured here in an opulent outfit. The ruff around her collar pronounces her face. The waist is tapered in by the busk and stomacher. The effect of the tapered waist accentuates the shape of the full-bodied skirt supported by a farthingale underneath the yardage of rich textiles.

Baroque and Rococo - 1643-1800 AD
Taking opulence to another level from the Renaissance, the Baroque and Rococo was defined by excess. Marie Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI, epitomizes excess fashion in her outlandish tailored garments and accessories. The intricate details and complex tailoring of her dress expresses the style reminiscent of this era.

Economical Fashions of 1940s WWII and Post-War Era

I chose to depict the 6 Functions of Dress through the 1940s war and post-war era since the economic lifestyle then parallels our current times. There was a departure from the grandiose towards a more pennywise approach which inevitably included the fashions of the time. This transition created styles that emerged as practical and just as importantly, patriotic.


















1. Environment Protection
The trenchcoat is a classic garment that dates back to World War I as an alternative to heavycoats used by the British and French military. It protects against environmental elements such as wind and rain. It was reincarnated in the 1940s fashion scene in response to World War II.

1940s Trenchcoat Fashions
Date: Circa 1940s
Designer: Unknown


2. Decoration
Although many women went hatless, wearing a hat as a form of decoration punctuated the image of well-dressed lady. The pill box style was a popular choice for women.

Pill Box Hat
Date: Circa 1940s
Designer: Unknown


















3. Gender Differentiation
Male and female undergarments are clearly defined in its functionality for each gender's anatomy. During the 1940s, brands such as Jockey and Formfit offered typical styles. Men wore knitted undershirts and briefs while women turned to brasseries and girdles.

Ads for Men's and Women's Undergarments
Date: Circa 1940s
Brand: Jockey and Formfit


4. Group Membership
Military uniforms identify the membership of a soldier's affiliation. The "Eisenhower" jacket, which was modeled after the type of military jacket General Dwight Eisenhower liked to wear, was a popular style during this period.



The "Eisenhower" Jacket
Date: Circa 1940s
Designer: Unknown


















5. Ceremonialism
In reflecting the people's frugality and resourcefulness, Bonnie Gowen made a wedding dress out of a parachute her husband, Arlee Gown, who served in the U.S. Navy, brought back to his wife-to-be. How innovative!

Bonnie Gowen's Wedding Dress
Date: 1946
Designer: Self-made
Here is the link to the article covering the Gowens' story for your reference:
http://www.lubbockonline.com/stories/050206/lif_050206031.shtml

6. Sexual Enhancement
Sweater were quite popular during the war. Celebrities were often photographed in form-fitting sweaters for "pin-up" pictures that enhanced the voluptuousness of their figures and evoked a sexy image. They were labeled as "sweater girls".

Sweater Girl Carole Landis
Date: 1941
Designer: Unknown