Monday, October 19, 2009

From Ancient Egypt to Baroque/Rococo: A Chronology of Draped and Tailored Garments

To illustrate examples of draped and tailored garments, I chose historical pieces that were popular for its respective period. This chronological perspective also depicts the transformation of clothing beginning with the minimalist drapery of Ancient Egypt to the outlandish tailored over-the-top fashions of the Baroque-Rococo period.

Draped Garments

Egyptial Old Kingdom - 3000-1500 BC
The kalasiris (for female) and the schenti (for male) were the base clothing used by Egyptians to drape on their body. Girdles and ropes were use to form the silhouettes of each garment. This image portrays a pharaoh and his queen in majestic garments and accessories only suitable for royalty.

Greece - 1100 BC-146 BC
Grecian garments are characterized by soft flowing silhouettes. To secure the draping of garments on the body, fibulas were used. In this image, we see a woman wearing a doric chiton. The musician wears a tunic-type of chiton.

Rome - 500 BC-476 AD
Roman garments were also draped much like Grecian clothing. A unique aspect of the Roman clothing style is their usage of color in textiles as well as the variety of textiles used to create garments. The Roman Empire's access to various countries and resources contributed to their unique fashions. The woman in this image is wearing a stola and palla which is indicative of her marriage status, while the man is outfitted in a toga.

Tailored Garments

Byzantium and the Middle Ages - 313 BC - 1450 AD
During the later part of the Roman Empire's rule, the eastern Roman capital, Constantinople, was more stable politically than its Western counterpart. As a result, less conflicts meant more time to cultivate fashions. Although the silhouette of the clothing during this period was still fluid and soft, there was an emergence of tailored garments and complicated textiles usually enhanced by embroidery. The dalmaticas worn by the persons shown in this image are tailored to be long and robe-like to provide maximum coverage of the body. This conservative appearance, which is a departure from the more revealing Grecian and even Roman styles, is characteristic of the Christian church's powerful influence during this period.

Rennaisance - 1330-1625 AD
Following the Byzantine era, the tailored garments during the Rennaisance period retain the usage of ornate fabrics. However, they have become rigid in shape. Queen Elizabeth is pictured here in an opulent outfit. The ruff around her collar pronounces her face. The waist is tapered in by the busk and stomacher. The effect of the tapered waist accentuates the shape of the full-bodied skirt supported by a farthingale underneath the yardage of rich textiles.

Baroque and Rococo - 1643-1800 AD
Taking opulence to another level from the Renaissance, the Baroque and Rococo was defined by excess. Marie Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI, epitomizes excess fashion in her outlandish tailored garments and accessories. The intricate details and complex tailoring of her dress expresses the style reminiscent of this era.

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